November 20, 2020

The Weavers of Nagaland

Finding versatility in the simplicity of their looms, the master weavers of Nagaland craft beautiful textiles that reimagine traditional designs.

by Joseph Meehan

The latest addition to Revival’s collection comes from the far reaches of northeast India, where the use of the loin loom distinguishes the region’s textiles from the rest of the country’s weaving tradition. Sourced from a collective of women weavers who pass their craft down from generation to generation, the table runners and pillow covers strike a perfect balance between timeless styling and traditional technique that embodies the Revival ethos. 

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In the rugged, mountainous terrain of northeast India, the state of Nagaland stretches across the Naga Hills and the Paktati Range, both of which harbor peaks that soar past 12,000 feet. Flora and fauna thrive in forestland that ranges from coniferous to tropical to subtropical. Mining, forestry and agriculture account for the bulk of the region's exports, but thanks to the masterful skills of local weavers and a little bit of collective organizing power, the traditional textiles of the region are making a new mark on the global marketplace. 

Just a couple of decades ago, the phrase “Made in Nagaland” meant little to anyone outside the region. But to those in the know, the phrase now denotes a craft product that preserves cultural legacy, supports a large community of weavers, and showcases exquisite craftsmanship—thanks in large part to weaving collectives. Founded to support the women weavers of Nagaland and bring their textiles to the world, the collective we’ve partnered with obtains raw materials, handles packaging and finishing, works out shipping logistics, and much more so the weavers can focus on their craft. 

Nagaland textiles are woven on loin looms, an uncomplicated device that, in essence, consists of nothing more than bamboo poles, some rope, and a strap. The warp is tied to the poles, the rope is tied to a fixed point, and then the strap is placed around the weaver’s lower back (that’s where the name “loin loom” comes from) so they can use their body to adjust the tension of the loom. A couple of hand tools are used to manipulate the warp and weave the weft. While a plain weave fabric is relatively easy to produce this way, the signature embroidered designs of Nagaland require an expert hand and close attention to detail. 

Nagaland has 16 major tribes and several subtribes, all of which have their own array of designs that can denote everything from the wealth, power, gender, status, age, and other qualities of the wearer. These symbols give weavers in Nagaland an almost endless library of designs for inspiration. The table runners and cushion covers in this collection are inspired specifically by the Zeliang Naga tribe’s traditional sarong called the Lithuina, reimagined and translated to new contexts. The weavers possess an incredible ability to translate traditional designs into the warp and weft in innovative ways to create new, timeless designs that remain rooted in tradition. 

Translating a reimagined design to the loom is easier said than done. The loin loom is a warp facing loom, on which the weavers embroider the weft yarns onto the warp. There’s no graph to guide the weavers hand when creating the desired pattern, so to weave a textile—especially one of this quality—requires exceptional precision and tremendous expertise. The precision is developed over time, especially by weavers who start at a young age, and the expertise is passed down from generation to generation along with the loin looms themselves. 

The women of Nagaland have woven clothing and textiles on their loin looms for centuries. But the agency and income that collectives like our partner’s brought to the weavers in the last few decades has changed their lives, whether it’s providing extra income for their children’s education or simply providing for daily expenses. While women have always found pride and joy in their textiles, the work itself has been transformed from the kind of unpaid women’s labor that all too often goes unacknowledged, to a source of empowerment for the weavers to support themselves with extra income and create new opportunities for their families.

Economic development has generally been an awkward dance of one step forward, two steps back, limited to fits and starts thanks to nationalist extremists and insurgent violence. Despite numerous ceasefire agreements between the extremists and the Indian government, violence has continued to plague the region into the 21st Century. But the opportunities afforded through the development of cottage industries like weaving, woodworking, and pottery have not only provided independence for the artisans, they’ve also started to attract small-scale craft tourism—one more step toward a well-developed economy that will benefit the entire region. 

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From seed to stitch, our partner collective’s values align with our mission to revive the art of handmade and support sustainable micro-economies. The all-natural cotton yarns are dyed using fiber-reactive dyes that are less harmful to the environment and the people who work with them. The timeless designs complement any modern decor and won’t go out of style anytime soon. Being a part of the collective assures the weavers of a regular and healthy income, giving them the opportunity to take up weaving professionally. We were in love with these beautiful, functional textiles from first sight, only fell deeper the more we learned about them, and we’re proud to bring you the chance to get to know them too.